The real 'cliffhanger'

For the laymen or non-climbers improving your rock climbing skills seems like it would be rather straightforward and before you know you will be like Sylvester Stallone in 'Cliffhanger.' Not so, rock climbing, as with most sports, is full of nuances that need to be mastered in order to be a successful.

Rock climbing coach Alli Rainey, a self-described rock climbing nerd, she knows and understands these nuances. She has been climbing for 24 years and loves to share her knowledge and experience to help fellow climbers expand their skill set.

Rainey solely works with experienced climbers, usually ones who have plateaued in their development and are looking to get back on the ascension curve. To start, Rainey has her climbers fill out a questionnaire, allowing her to gauge the climber's strength and weaknesses and develop a fitted training routine. "There isn't a one-size-fits-all training program. It really depends on the person's age, training experience and how long they've been climbing," said Rainey.

Common struggles of climbers who have sought the advice of Rainey are strength, conditioning and climbing inefficiencies. "Most benefit from specific strength and condition training and correcting climbing inefficiencies," said Rainey.

"Strength issues like upper body and core strength are typical among climbers. Most would equate core strength with abs but in climbing a lot of body tension is in your lower back," said Rainey.

As a coach Rainey looks to find the fastest and most efficient way to improve her climbers, getting them off the plateau and back on the upward development slope.

"I help untrain those inefficiencies and retrain the efficient climbing techniques. Working out those inefficiencies usually is better for the climber than trying to add strength, which is tougher," said Rainey. "Balancing the body is also beneficial and climbers tend to develop muscle imbalances. To put it simply when you pull and don't push it can lead to a hunchback posture and other injuries. The better balance throughout your body leads to a more efficient climb."

Breathing, sloppy footwork, limited climbing moves and pace are the climbing inefficiencies Rainey sees the most. "With all of the movement involved climbing is a complicated sport. You need to be mindful of your breathing, precise with your footwork for a more efficient climb and it's important to integrate as many moves, like heel hooking, as possible ... People have tendencies to climb straight on like they're on a ladder but that creates more work for them. If you keep your arms as straight as possible and bend your legs you'll put less tension on your arms and more on your legs which have the muscles to handle it," said Rainey.

What led Rainey to coaching was her very own struggle as a climber, "I didn't train properly most of my climbing life and I was bad at pulling. My husband kept encouraging me to train outside of climbing and once I did I began to see rapid improvements, and thought this is so simple everyone should try this," said Rainey.

You would think as a coach Rainey would have a hard time climbing herself without having the coaching voice standout in her internal monologue. But Rainey is able to compartmentalize and stay focused on the task at hand. "I'm able to keep the coach aspect out of my head during climbs," said Rainey. "I'm focused on my breathing, hand and foot placement because when you start to let outside distractions come in that's when things can fall apart quickly."

Rainey is also a yoga instructor and likes to use yoga as a way to compliment her climbing. "I don't think it's necessary for a climber to do yoga. For me tough it's something I've been doing since I was 10 years old because I found a book on it. But there are things from yoga that are applicable to climbing like breathing, keeping your focus on your movement and flexibility," she said.

Rock climbing is labeled an extreme sport and the climbers are often thought of as carnie types. Rainey has heard it all before and is willing to clear up the misconceptions. "There's the dirtbag climber stereotype and there certainly are those people but they're a small contingent of the climbers. Most climbers are people from all walks of life who enjoy climbing. You see a lot more families, a bigger age range and more women climbing today," said Rainey.

"People also think rock climbing is a crazy, extreme sport that only crazy people do. I remember telling my parents when I started climbing and they thought I had a death wish and how could I trust the belayer," said Rainey, "The truth is, out of all the 'extreme sports' it's the safest, all of the safety equipment is over designed and everyone knows how to climb safely. I'm not a very bold person to begin with and actually I'm afraid of heights."

You read that correctly, the passionate climbing coach is afraid of heights. But instead of letting her fear control her, Rainey controls it. "People are always shocked when I tell them that," said Rainey, "After so many years of climbing it has gotten better but I'm still scared up there. It's something I've learned to accept about myself and deal with. Usually what I do when I'm afraid is I'll jump off and take a fall. Taking that fall allows me to know I'm safe because the feeling of fear comes from this feeling of exposure that I'm not safe in a safe place. It's about getting rid of that irrational fear and enjoying the climb."

"My husband and I have taught clinics on falling and how to fall safely. We teach to work within your comfort zone and gradually push your comfort zone step by step. Working with a trusted belayer is a must ... If I have a client who is like me and afraid of heights I tell them to work on it sparingly. Heading to the gym with dread or a pit in your stomach because you're working on falling is not fun," said Rainey. "So it's important to take it one step at a time because at the end of the day climbing should be fun."